Bias binding is a very easy way to finish off necklines and armholes, in place of facings or linings. Today I'll show you how to add bias binding to neaten the edges on a dress.
There are several ways to attach bias binding. The method I'll show you, results in the bias binding being hidden on the inside of the dress.
I've used 12mm (roughly 1/2") store bought bias. You could use wider bias binding or you could make your own. The process is the same.
Before you cut the dress bodice, take note of the directions in the pattern for finishing the raw edges. Depending on the bias binding you use, you will be sewing with roughly a 1/4" seam. If the pattern directions differ, you may need to cut a little off the edges of the bodice, or you may need to add extra fabric.
Open out bias binding and place on fabric, right sides together. Sew along the fold line.
If you are attaching to an armhole or neckline that is already formed, you will need to make a small hem on the end that will be on the top. As the dress I was sewing had a crossover bodice, the armholes and neckline were not formed at this stage, so I didn't need to make a hem, therefore I don't have photos of this step.
Fold over the bias binding to the wrong side of the fabric.
With the right side of the dress facing up, topstitch 1/8" from the edge of the armhole or neckline. The first row of topstitching is not absolutely necessary. I like the look and the added strength, but you can omit this step if you wish.
With the right side of the dress facing up, sew a 2nd row of topstitching roughly 3/8" (8mm) from the edge of the armhole or neckline. You may have to adjust the distance from the edge, depending on the width of your bias. The 2nd row of topstitching should catch the outside edge of the bias binding, on the wrong side.
Below is the wrong side of the dress, showing the bias binding.
It's probably best to choose bias binding that will blend in with your dress, but the contrasting bias I've used allows you to see the steps clearly.
Once again, I've used the Good Deeds Dress by Elysium, to make my 5th dress, towards my goal, sewing for Dress A Girl Around the World this year.
I'll be adding this dress to both the Dresses for Girls and the Sewing Tips and Techniques link parties, here at Threading My Way.