Saturday 9 March 2013

How to Line a Cross Over Bodice...

Lining the bodice of a dress makes for a very neat finish. Today I'll show you how to line a cross over bodice, using the Good Deeds Dress by Elysium as an example. 

Cut out 2 of each bodice piece; 2 back pieces and 4 front pieces. I've used the same fabric for both the bodice itself and the lining, but you could use different fabrics.

  • Sew the shoulder seams of the bodice.
  • Sew the shoulder seams of the lining.
  • Neaten the edges of the seams and press in opposite directions, so that when the bodice and lining are placed together, the seams will not lie on top of each other. This reduces bulk.
  • Place the lining and the bodice right sides together.
  • Smooth out so both are flat, lining up the armholes, neckline and shoulder seams.
  • Pin around the armholes and neckline.
  • Baste by hand (long running stitches) and remove pins.
  • Using a 1/4" seam, sew around the armholes and the neckline. 
  • Remove the basting.
  • Cut around the armholes and neckline with pinking shears. If you don't have pinking shears, cut notches on the curves, being careful not to cut the stitching.
  • Turn right side out and iron.
  • Topstitch 1/8" from the edge on the armholes and neckline.

Follow the pattern instructions to join the side seams. Because you have several layers of fabric, the seam will be quite bulky, so instead of neatening all together, press the seam open and neaten each side separately.

As you are sewing through several layers of fabric, make sure you have a sharp needle. ie; not a blunt needle. I also like to use a denim needle, as it is especially good at sewing thick fabric, or in this case, many layers of fabric, as it is sharper than a regular needle.

On the right side, topstitch on either side of the side seams. This will ensure the seam lies flat. 

Sew the bottom edges together, 1/8" from the edges. This just makes it easier to keep the layers together  to sew the skirt to the bodice.

Attach the skirt to the bodice as per the pattern instructions.

This is my 6th dress towards my goal, sewing for Dress A Girl Around the World this year and my 6th Good Deeds Dress by Elysium; a pattern created specifically for charity sewing. I like variety and so I've sewn different versions of the same pattern.

I think my favourite is the one made from the red hearts fabric, with the lined bodice and ruffled sleeves, followed very closely by the curved seams dress. Which one is your favourite?

It's time for a change. My next dress for Dress A Girl will be sewn with a different pattern. There's a few I want to try.

... Pam


  1. Great tutorials Pam. I'm pinning to my sewing tips board!

  2. Thanks for the tips! I am getting ready to start Easter dresses and the first one will have a cross-over bodice that I hadn't given much thought yet. :)

  3. Makes for a nice clean finish!:)

  4. One of these days I will attempt dressmaking Pam!

  5. I'm yet to try this dress, but I have it ready to go AND I know where to come when I do! Gorgeous dresses so far!

  6. Nice tutorial!!! Thanks for sharing!! Love the dress!!!!
    Marisa from

  7. Thanks for this tutorial Pam... I think it will come in really handy :)

  8. Thanks for sharing this tutorial at A New Creation link party! I haven't tried a dress this complicated yet, but I'm getting closer and know your tips will be handy. Wow, you are well on the way to your goal with 6 dresses already finished!

  9. I definitely know where to come for girls' clothes help when I (hopefully) have a girl! All your tutorials are so clear!
    Thanks for linking up!

  10. Thanks for linking your tip up to Monday Funday! I noticed you had lots of good tips at the bottom of the post! I'll have to be reading some of those!

  11. Thank you for linking up on Alida Makes! I love the tutorial! Pinning now :-)

  12. Your dresses are so cute! Thanks for sharing @ Submarine Sunday!


  13. I used your tutorial tonight to make my first Good Deeds dress - thanks for posting it - it worked great, and the dress is (if I do say so myself) adorable! I'll see it on the recipient next weekend - I hope it fits :D

  14. Thanks for the tutorial on the lining - - it worked out great and makes for a nice dress.

  15. Thank you Pam! I am working on my first Good Deeds Dress by Elysium for the Dress a Girl Program and I'm working on the bodice lining now. Glad I saw this tutorial. It was very helpful! Cheers to you!
    Dana D.


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